Tuscany, Car Trouble and where clients are going
Dear Friends,
After hiring a car in Italy for a week I need to see a tinnitus specialist – the bings, bongs, beeps, warnings, vibrations aaagh! It was the most infuriating thing I have driven, ever and I can’t imagine that it is a good advertisement for the car itself – ours was something called a BYD apparently. Couple the supposed assistance that the sensors claim to provide with the constantly changing speed limits in Tuscany and you have a recipe for insanity. The youth tried to turn off all the warnings but that proved remarkably problematic, the only true win that we had was covering the camera that looks at your eyes and then tells you to keep your eyes on the road – but once covered it warned you, that the camera wasn’t working, oh and yes it thought that its built in steering was better than mine – which it absolutely wasn’t. I hope that in the future one will be able to ask for a hire car that is truly manual and “analogue” if that is the right term.
Anyway rant over. Tuscany is still Tuscany with wonderful everything really, food, people, wine, vistas, culture, antiquity and sun that lasts well beyond August. We stayed in Laurenzana: a tiny hilltop village with Church, village shop, Bar and Pizzeria. The same three chaps in the bar everyday discussing nothing much but with vigour and passion. There was also the local Festival; think “one man band”, fire-eater, jazz band and pizza eaten in your hands with a cold plastic cup of excellent Nebbiolo whilst sitting on the pavement – utter bliss.
FOOD AND DRINK
In Tuscany wine is part of life and the majority of it is good. Whether you are visiting a local vineyard or podere for a tasting and cellar tour, and inevitably the subsequent purchase of a few bottles; eating in a restaurant and choosing the house wine; stocking up in the local deli for the villa or pushing the boat out for a Tignanello - it is all a pleasure and significantly better value than dear old blighty - drink wine! Our go to cold red was Antinori Toscana - which seemed to go well with everything.
In Lari, a small hilltop nearby, we went to Bar Centrale Osteria Bistrot, unassuming, no menu, no website, a choice of three different sauces that change daily – we were offered Amatriciana, Cinghiale Ragu, and simple Pomodoro nothing out of the ordinary for Tuscany but done to perfection; on their choice of pasta (made in the village) – heaven. Well priced too – it was a real find.
If you have a late flight out of Pisa I would highly recommend Osteria La Mescita think Octopus, Truffles, Burrata, bruschetta, not all together, obviously with wonderful staff and away from the hoards gawping at the leaning tower.
BOOKS
Nothing to do with Italy at all but a plug for my good friend Thomas. The Saffron Thief by T.L Mogford a page turner set in the 17th century in England amazingly researched and so readable – I rattled through it.
WHERE CLIENTS ARE GOING
Rome – the eternal city for very good reasons.
Porto for wine, gastronomy, and the autumn warmth.
Iceland - a break whilst the sun is still there, for spa, relaxation and walking and adventure.
Caribbean - Pre and post Christmas breaks.
Europe and Japan - families are booking for Christmas, half term and Easter
